Serves 4

Dissolve salt and sugar in 3 quarts cold water in 2-gallon zipper-lock plastic bag. Add chops and seal bag, pressing out as much air as possible. (Alternatively, divide brine and chops evenly between two 1-gallon zipper-lock bags.) Refrigerate, turning bag once, until fully seasoned, about 1 hour. Remove chops from brine and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Coat chops with spice rub or season generously with pepper.

Light grill and turn all burners to high; cover and heat grill 15 minutes. Use wire brush to scrape cooking grate clean. Turn off all but one burner. Place chops over hotter part of grill, cover, and cook until browned on each side, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Move chops to cooler side of grill. Cover and continue cooking, turning once, until insant-read thermometer inserted through side of chop and away from bone registers 135°, 7 to 9 minutes longer. Transfer chops to platter, tent loosely with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. Internal temperature should rise to 145°. Serve immediately.